I’m sitting in a cafe watching sensational waves, heart racing with excitement, enthusiasm and nerves.
Matts has gone to hire a board and have a go while I babysit the computer. Then when he comes in it’s my turn. I think they may be a bit to big for me but I have to have a go… It’s wayyyy to nice… good size… offshore… beautiful… fun… perfect…
So I sit here admiring the waves and I spot Matt occasionally having a nice ride. I can only imagine his smile from ear to ear when he returns.
Earlier in the day we sat at ‘The Point’ and watched surfers carve up what is a “small” day. To me they were huge and heavy. I admired one chick riding freely and seemingly effortlessly. I picked up a few pointers and set some goals for myself. Firstly I want to ride 5 waves in one session by the end of the week. I also set a bigger goal of being able to consistently ride waves then I can get a new surfboard, a PINK surfboard!
On another note, also full of nervous energy, I learnt how to ride a motorbike! The past 3 days we have had a real motorbike, with gears, to check out surf breaks in the area. Matt taught me for 40min then I was on the road. Well actually I was going so so in the lessons and I was getting bored so we left. Then when we hit a quiet spot on a dirt track and I asked to have a go. Matt hesitantly agreed after highlighting the hazards – bumpy gravel roads, cows, goats, dogs, and him on the back.
The first take off was dodgy with Matt on the back, but then I rode like a pro. He was very impressed.
I wish surfing was as easy to learn as learning to ride a motorbike.
Back to surfing… The question is, can I do it? Can I turn my nerves into a sweet sensation? Here comes Matt, as expected, smile from ear to ear. Now it’s my turn 🙂