Beautiful waves… Can I catch them?

I’m sitting in a cafe watching sensational waves, heart racing with excitement, enthusiasm and nerves.
Matts has gone to hire a board and have a go while I babysit the computer. Then when he comes in it’s my turn. I think they may be a bit to big for me but I have to have a go… It’s wayyyy to nice… good size… offshore… beautiful… fun… perfect…

So I sit here admiring the waves and I spot Matt occasionally having a nice ride. I can only imagine his smile from ear to ear when he returns.

Earlier in the day we sat at ‘The Point’ and watched surfers carve up what is a “small” day. To me they were huge and heavy. I admired one chick riding freely and seemingly effortlessly. I picked up a few pointers and set some goals for myself. Firstly I want to ride 5 waves in one session by the end of the week. I also set a bigger goal of being able to consistently ride waves then I can get a new surfboard, a PINK surfboard!

On another note, also full of nervous energy, I learnt how to ride a motorbike! The past 3 days we have had a real motorbike, with gears, to check out surf breaks in the area. Matt taught me for 40min then I was on the road. Well actually I was going so so in the lessons and I was getting bored so we left. Then when we hit a quiet spot on a dirt track and I asked to have a go. Matt hesitantly agreed after highlighting the hazards – bumpy gravel roads, cows, goats, dogs, and him on the back.

The first take off was dodgy with Matt on the back, but then I rode like a pro. He was very impressed.

I wish surfing was as easy to learn as learning to ride a motorbike.

Back to surfing… The question is, can I do it? Can I turn my nerves into a sweet sensation? Here comes Matt, as expected, smile from ear to ear. Now it’s my turn 🙂

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6 Responses to Beautiful waves… Can I catch them?

  1. Marita says:

    YES YOU CAN DO IT!!! Bloody hell, I think I’d be happy with riding a motor bike, but then I grew up surfing!! Pink surfboard sounds sexy. Big hugs and lots a luv to you both

    • MattJill says:

      Thanks for the vote of confidence. The update includes attempting surfing at Baby Point, the beautiful waves we were watching. It wasn’t a complete success and I didn’t get too hurt. But today… I surfed a full big wave!!! Actually 3 waves. The wave was big that matt couldn’t even see me from behind. Matt is so proud of me. He now has more confidence in me. I think he was trying to protect me from the big waves before so I wouldn’t get too battered up.
      I already have ideas of the design on my board. It’s pink with some orange and yellow.
      Maybe you can join us in philippines and we can all surf together 🙂
      Love Jill xox

  2. Woohoo! Go Jill! As someone who is scared of waves and has never rode a full motorbike, I take my hat of to you girl!!!!

  3. don says:

    go Jill. What wave are you riding? After youve been to the phillipines, meet us in Niseko Japan mid January for some snowboarding – just putting it out there. we got all the places to stay sus’d, altho you may want to book accommodation sooner rather than later. Jacob and Eve are coming too. Just think going from crystal cylinders to powder palaces – sweeeeeet

    • MattJill says:

      Hi Don. We are at Lighthouse in Komari about 40min north of Arugam bay. Waves were huge yesterday, some overhead height. I took a big beating yesterday. Lots of tears involved but about to try again shortly.
      It is interesting you mention Japan because we have talked a few times about going there to snowboard after Philipines. Can you send an email with your details?
      Love Jill

  4. don says:

    Its so good catching up in real time.
    We didn’t have this when we were travelling.
    Mum and Dad were lucky to hear from me once in three months – ya get that.
    So Japan trip.
    15 January
    Arrive Tokyo Narita Airport. Stay night in Narita at Hilton Narita International, not expensive and its just a sleep
    16 January
    Fly to Sapporo on the north island (Hakkaido) New Chitose Airport. Get transfer coach to Hirafu Niseko – about 2.5hours.
    We are staying at Yama Shizen East
    Check out Owashi Lodge backbackers. Close to lifts, in the thick of it.
    Friends of ours are staying there and they reckon it was $50 each per night. Basic lodgings but we’re staying at a smicko place so you have to hang with us.
    $65 a day ski passes, 8am to 9pm
    $50 a day skis and poles a day
    26 January
    Back to Tokyo staying central – not booked yet
    28 January
    Leave late and arrive Coolangatta 29 January

    Check out Jetstar for the internal flights – cheap
    If your serious, book lodgings as soon as you decide, the place fills up quick.
    Average snow depth at that time of year is 2.5m, generally known for its awesome powder.
    Im excited. Have a think, check out the web.
    Its five months off so don’t know how that fits in with your plans but I probably wouldn’t want to do Japan any sooner than that.
    Hope the waves were nice to you

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